Sweet, Sweet Tarmac...

We took off Tuesday morning under dark skies and a light drizzle. The further west we went the darker it became. We decided to pull off at a Ger and small building when it really looked like it was about to come down - hoping the occupants might offer us some shelter from the storm. We did get inside after a bit showing them our route on maps and communicating through the usual sign language. After about 30 minutes the dark storm it the distance had appeared to move north so we decided to press on. Soon the skies became dark and the rain became steady. It had also appeared to have already rained hard for some time all through our path west. The mud became thicker and the puddles deeper. It was actually easier riding than the previous two days as the sand became firm from the rain. The biggest hazard this day was the sections of extreme washboards. The front end would start to vibrate violently making control difficult and fatigue the hands and arms.

Around 4:30pm we hit the Tarmac we had heard we would find before reaching the lake. We had to stop and give our thanks - Ken actually kissed the road. His rear shock had given out before we even hit the dirt so he had been been riding a pogo stick for the past three days. The road was the sweetest stretch of Tarmac any if us had ever seen. Smooth as a billiard table, no seams no curves. It was the strangest thing because there was nothing where the road started. The nearest town was 150 km back where we had started earlier that day - and a tiny town at that. Oh well, we will take it - it was nice to be able to relax a bit as the previous three days had required laser focus.

We arrived at the lake around 7pm and of course had to camp on the beach. We met a couple of travelers that had started in Scotland and were going to Australia - Malcolm from Scotland and Sara from Australia. They ended up camping with us and we shared stories, talked bikes and enjoyed the spectacular sunset. They had come the way we were headed and vise versa so it was good to share info on the roads (or lack there of) ahead.

Tonight we will camp again - hopefully on top of a mountain pass - but Thursday we plan to be in Ulgii and will look for a hotel or guesthouse as we haven't had showers since Saturday or done laundry in over a week.

We also haven't had internet in three days until our lunch stop today.  I put some iPhone photos up for the last two pasts and will put the better ones on when I get to better internet tomorrow.

Muddy riding today.

Lots of camels in a Mongolia.

Malcolm and Sara.

Beach camp at the lake.

The sweet Tarmac - like billiard table!  To bad it only lasts 200 km.

The sun setting on the lake.

Bush Camp Outside Songino...

Another tough day today of off road with a few nasty deep sand sections. I only crashed once today is an improvement over my three crash day yesterday. This crash tweaked my right leg a bit - I put my foot down to try to save it and the back if my right calf slammed up against the pannier. I'll be limping for a few days from that hit. At least I'm now balanced as my left shoulder is what took the hit yesterday. I think I'm getting better in the light sand but the deep stuff is still killing me. The rough roads (dirt tracks) also take a toll on the body and mind. There is very little relaxing behind the bars as there could be a giant rock, pothole or sand pit around any corner or over any rise. Full concentration on the road is necessary. Mongolia is hard.

We got to the small of Songino around 7pm pretty beat up and exhausted. We were hoping to find a guesthouse or Ger camp to stay the night but the options were slim. The only guesthouse was locked and appeared to have gone out of business. We searched and asked but could not find the Ger camp we had heard was there. So we rode a few clicks out of town and saw a small pump house for watering livestock that could serve as a wind break. The wind was howling and we there were no trees or anything else in sight that could give protection so we set up there. Even with the wind break within minutes of setting up my tent it was filled with fine sand. We cooked dinner (more noodles) behind the shed and went to bed early. While we were cooking about a half dozen Yak came over to the watering hole so we figured we would have company in the morning. Luckily the wind had died down considerably at that point. It rained a bit overnight but nothing significant. It is a very dry climate at around 6000 ft. - even though this is the rainy season that only means 2 inches of rainfall average for August.

We were awaken by the sound of motorbikes in the early morning. The owners of the pump house had come to fire up the generator and water the Yaks. Soon cows and horses came over for a drink as well. The ranchers didn't mind us camping there and in fact we chatted (basically in sign language) and shared coffee for a few hours. They were of course interested in the bikes and our journey. Ken showed his picture book and they were excited to see he was a farmer. Was definitely an interesting morning. It may get more interesting once we head out and find out what last nights rain did to the roads.

The long dusty road ahead.

Ken and Mark during a quick stop.

Mark asking a local directions.

Three tents huddled up against the fence to brake the crazy wind last night.

Mark's crash in the sand.  This was some tough stuff to ride in!

My sand crash.

Central Mongolia...

We have had all dirt the past day and a half of riding.  Some of it fun - some if it miserable deep sand.  The deep sand is very difficult for me - I haven't figured out how to ride in it.  The shallow sand has been ok - the back end just slides around a bit.  But the deep sand grabs the front wheel and starts the bike bucking around.  I crashed three times within 30 minutes through the deep sand sections we hit this afternoon.  The going is tough as we only covered about 100 miles riding for 8 hours.  My 49 year old body is pretty beat up this evening.  Luckily I have vodka to mask the soreness.  Tonight we are in a guest house in Tosonchengel after camping in a beautiful valley in the Steppe last night.  It got pretty cold overnight - camping in Mongolia is just an awesome experience.  We would probably have camped tonight if we weren't so beat by the time we reached the town - and $12 for a bed and $2.50 for dinner is pretty hard to pass up.  We were hoping for showers and a bathroom, but this place has neither.  A bucket of water for a face wash and a hole in the ground outhouse is all we get.  

We stopped for lunch at a beautiful shaded area with a creek running through it.  We also scored a free lunch - or a Yogi as Ken called it.  There was a German group on a tour having lunch there as well and they offered to feed us. It was a delicious pasta dish.  They were touring in the super cool Russian 4wd vans.  It would have been a great spot to camp but we needed to make more miles before stopping.

Tomorrow is going to be another tough day of all dirt.  I really hope we don't see any deep sand - but I'm guessing we will.

Camping in the Steppe.

Mark clowning around with a sheep skeleton.

The road ahead.

Beautiful stop for lunch by a stream.

Lunch with the German tour group.

One of the many creek crossings.

Road to Tsetserleg...

The ride out of UB pretty much sucked.  Even though we left after "rush hour" at around 10:30am the streets were still clogged with cars trying to run us over.  I don't know why they even bother painting lines on the road because people here just put their cars into any space they think it will fit into.  On two lane roads cars can be 4 across.  Mongolians are good friendly people when you meet them on the street, in the shops, etc. - but are downright evil once they get in cars.  Even the bus drivers wanted to run us over.  Add the smog and dust to the traffic and we were happy to get to the edge of town and into the countryside and be able to breathe.  It took about 1.5 hours just to get out of the city.

The road was generally good once outside UB with the exception of the every so often and sometimes everywhere monster size potholes.  Hitting one of the bigger ones would certainly be trip ending - it was for at least two cars we passed along the route.  One we passed had been abandoned with one of the front wheels snapped off.  The other I actually witnessed as I was about 50 feet behind him when he hit the lane wide deep hole.  I remember thinking when it passed me at warp speed - how did a Prius survive these roads all the way out tp here?  There had just been several constructions with some rough rock and dirt sections.  Just then it hit the hole, popped up in the air sideways and the front end came crashing down hard on the pavement.  As I passed I saw the front tires were sitting on the wheel wells - the whole front end suspension assembly had been destroyed.

We grabbed lunch at a small spot along the road.  The sign outside had pictures of the four items they offered.  We ordered one of each to split and all ended up being pretty good.  We find it's best to order one each of unfamiliar items and share so someone or all of us don't get stuck with a "chicken feet" scenario.  Luckily all four were quite good. 

It looked like rain when we were getting within about 100 km of Tsetserleg - but we were spared and made it into town just before dusk.  We had run hard all day and had been on the road about 10 hours to cover the 460 km distance.  Getting into town at 8:30pm proved a bit difficult as the guesthouse we wanted to stay in was sold out.  We found another next door and got checked in, but then ran into problems finding dinner.  Apparently most restaurants close at 9pmor earlier on Fridays.  This is because the town of Tsetserleg has an ordinance of no alcohol sales on Fridays and I suppose restaurants assume no one wants to eat out at a later hour without a cocktail. 

After wandering around in the pitch black streets for about an hour trying to find som food we found a place open and went inside.  We were struggling with the language on the menu when a young Mongolian girl, Michelle, came over an said in perfect English - I can help you guys with ordering.  Not only were they still serving food but we also found ot from our new friend that they would serve us beer "on the down low" if you promised to keep it quiet.  We ordered up a feast and everything was delicious.  Everyone had been telling us that the Mongolian food was no good, but so far we have enjoyed everything we have tried.

Tomorrow the road disappears and we will be riding dirt for several days - we hope it stays dry or the progress will be slow and difficult.  We would like to be back in Russia in a week.

Lunch spot.  We had one of each to share.

The storm brewing as we approached Tsetserleg.

The table buffet dinner in Tsetserleg.

Goodbye Oasis...

Today we leave the Oasis and UB to head west for the real reason we came to Mongolia - to explore the Steppe and experience the nomadic culture found outside the capital. We stayed in UB at least one and probable two days longer than expected. Not because we enjoyed the city - it is probable one of the least desirable cities in earth. It is dirty, dusty, congested and is filled with some if the most dangerous drivers we have experienced thus far. It was the Oasis and the people we met there that made staying there the extra days well worth the investment. Sharing info on the road ahead, trading travel stories and learning about the realities of life from our respective piece of the world. The saying is very true in that the more you travel the smaller the world becomes. We travel to see and experience something different - and we do end up experiencing many differences from our own way of life. But we also find that the people in places we visit and fellow travelers we meet along the way are often the same - living life and getting by with a common theme...to be happy. How we all get to that place is what makes us individuals, interesting to meet and maybe have an opportunity to get to know on a deeper level. Goodby Oasis - thanks for the hospitality and for bringing travelers together from all corners of the world...

Beat from Switzerland.  Doing it on a bicycle - hardcore!

The pavilion area and Oasis cafe.

Christiano and Sabrina from Italy.

Ron from Austraila.